Bacterial contamination of a water supply doesn't always mean 'health hazard'. Some types of bacterial contamination are more annoying than harmful. Iron and sulfur bacteria are two of the most common bacterial contaminants that well owners face. Neither type of bacteria is particularly harmful, at least not at the levels usually seen in well systems. However, they can be incredible nuisances. Here are some valuable tips on how to avoid or treat iron and sulfur bacteria infestations.
Iron Bacteria
Iron bacteria is generally more common than sulfur bacteria,
simply because iron is abundant in ground water.
Iron bacteria are "oxidizing agents." That is, they combine iron or manganese dissolved in ground water with oxygen. A side effect of the process is a foul smelling brown slime which can coat well screens, pipes, and plumbing fixtures. This slime isn't a health hazard, but it can cause unpleasant odors, corrode plumbing equipment, and clog well screens and pipes. If conditions are right, the bacteria can grow at amazing rates and an entire well system may be rendered virtually useless in just a few months.
There are several signs that may indicate an iron bacteria problem. Water may have a yellow, red or orange color. Rusty slime deposits may form in toilet tanks. A strange smell resembling fuel oil, cucumbers, or sewage may be noticeable. Sometimes the odor will only be apparent in the morning or after other extended periods of non-use.
Sulfur Bacteria
There are two categories of sulfur bacteria: sulfur oxidizers and
sulfur reducers.
Sulfur-oxidizing bacteria
Sulfur-oxidizing bacteria produce effects similar to those of iron bacteria. They convert sulfide into sulfate, producing a dark slime that can clog plumbing.Sulfur-reducing bacteria
Sulfur-reducing bacteria (SRBs) live in oxygen-deficient environments. They break down sulfur compounds, producing hydrogen sulfide gas in the process. Hydrogen sulfide gas is foul-smelling and highly corrosive.
Of the two types, sulfur-reducing bacteria are the more common. The most obvious sign of a sulfur bacteria problem is the distinctive "rotten egg" odor of hydrogen sulfide gas. As with odors caused by iron bacteria, the sulfur smell may only be noticeable when the water hasn't been run for several hours.
In some cases, the odor will only be present when hot water is run; this could indicate that SRBs are building up in the water heater. Blackening of water or dark slime coating the inside of toilet tank may also indicate a sulfur bacteria problem.
Iron bacteria and sulfur bacteria contaminations are often difficult to tell apart because the symptoms are so similar, To complicate matters, SRBs often live in complex symbiotic relationships with iron bacteria, so both types may be present. Fortunately, both types of bacteria can be treated using the same methods.
Treatment of Iron and Sulfur Bacteria
There are several different ways of treating iron and sulfur
bacteria problems. Some of them are described in the following
section, however, the most effective method to use varies from
case to case.
Prevention
The best treatment for both iron and sulfur bacteria is
prevention.
Unsanitary well drilling can often introduce bacteria into a previously clean water supply. Therefore, anything that will be going into the ground during the drilling process needs to be disinfected. Tools, pump, pipe, gravel pack material, and even water used during drilling should be treated with a 200 milligrams per liter chlorine solution.
Once the well is completed, it should be shock chlorinated (see Water Well Disinfection). Well owners should keep a close eye out for any signs of iron or sulfur bacteria contamination.
Shock Chlorination
Chlorine is a common disinfectant used in water systems, and is
highly toxic to coliform and similar types of bacteria. Iron and
sulfur bacteria are more resistant to chlorine's effects. This is
because iron and sulfur bacteria occur in thick layers and are
protected by the slime they secrete. A standard chlorine
treatment may kill off bacterial cells in the surface layer but
leave the rest untouched. In the case of iron bacteria, iron
dissolved in the water may absorb disinfectant before it reaches
the bacteria.
For all of these reasons, iron and sulfur bacteria may be able to survive a chlorine treatment that would kill other types of bacteria.
Acid Treatment
For severe cases, treatment with a strong acid and salt solution
following a thorough shock chlorination may be required. The acid
solution (commercial hydrochloric acid, commonly known as,
"muriatic acid') may be able to penetrate thick
incrustations of bacteria that the chlorine solution was unable
to kill. This procedure should only be performed by a
licensed well contractor.
Water Heater Treatment
As noted earlier, Sulfur-reducing bacteria (SRBs) can often
contaminate water heaters, creating a foul smell when hot water
is turned on. A water heater provides a good environment for SRBs
because it contains a "sacrificial anode." This anode
is a magnesium rod that helps protect the water heater by
corroding instead of the tank lining. SRBs are nourished by
electrons released from the anode as it corrodes.
Water heaters infested with SRBs can be treated. SRBs die at temperatures of 140 degrees Fahrenheit or above, which is roughly equivalent to the medium setting on most home water heaters. Setting the water heater on "high" will raise the water temperature to approximately 160 degrees Fahrenheit and kill any SRBs in the tank. (This should only be done if the water tank has a pressure relief valve, and everyone in the house should be warned to prevent scaldings.) After about eight hours, the tank can be drained and the temperature setting returned to normal.
Raising the water heater temperature will temporarily solve the odor problem, but SRBs will quickly reinvade unless more permanent measures are taken.
Removing the sacrificial anode will eliminate the problem, but it can also shorten the water heater lifespan significantly and may void the warranty. Replacing the magnesium rod with one made of zinc won't totally eliminate SRBs, but it will greatly reduce their numbers. Consult with a plumber before attempting to modify your water heater.
Follow-up Procedures
Shock chlorination or the other methods discussed should solve
the immediate problems associated with iron or sulfur bacteria
(odor, slime, etc.), but they are probably not long term
solutions. Iron and sulfur bacteria tend to build up again a few
months after treatment. Bacteria problems are much easier to
control after the initial contamination has been treated,
however.
To keep down bacterial regrowth, well owners can periodically
disinfect their wells by shock chlorinating with a weaker
chlorine solution. Alternatively, our HERCULES II Iron Sulfur System
which will constantly chlorinate the water and then remove it as you
need it can be installed.Hercules II Whole House Water System
If a well has tested positive for coliform or other bacterial contamination, a simple and relatively inexpensive procedure known as "shock chlorination" can be performed to treat it. Shock chlorination should effectively kill any dangerous bacteria in the water supply, but you should have your water retested before using it for drinking or cooking purposes. Chlorination will act to reduce high iron and manganese levels or kill parasitic infestations.
Procedures for shock chlorinating a well
Mixing a chlorine solution
Chlorine is a universal disinfecting agent used in water works. Chlorine is highly toxic to bacteria at concentrations of 200 milligrams per liter and above. "Shock chlorinating" a well involves adding a chlorine solution to the water supply so it reaches a concentration of 200 milligrams/ liter and then circulating it to disinfect all parts of the water system.Chlorine is available in several different forms. The two most often used for well disinfection are dry chlorine and liquid household bleach. Dry chlorine contains about 65 percent calcium hypochlorite; bleach contains about 5.25 percent sodium hypoctilorite. When used properly, both are equally effective for disinfecting wells.
To mix an effective chlorine solution, add bleach or dry chlorine to five gallons of water in a clean, non-metallic container. See below for the correct amounts to add.
The quantities of liquid household bleach and dry chlorine required for water well disinfection
(for each 10 feet of water depth in well)Well Diameter Ounce(s) 65% Hypochlorite Pint(s) 5% Bleach 2"-8" 1 1 10"-14" 3 3 16"-20" 7 7 22"-26" 12 12 28"-30" 16 16 36" 24 24 Chlorinating the water supply
After mixing the chlorine solution, pour it directly into the well, splashing the well pump, piping, casing and other well equipment as much as possible. Now attach a hose to a nearby faucet and direct it back into the well. Open the faucet and use the hose to thoroughly wash down the interior of the well. This will recirculate the now-chlorinated water; you should leave the hose running for at least an hour or until the strong chorine odor can be detected.Now open all taps (inside and outside faucets, hydrants, etc.) in the system. Leave the taps running until you smell chlorine, then shut them. This will ensure that chlorinated water reaches all parts of the water distribution system.
Once the well water has been chlorinated and thoroughly recirculated, it should be allowed to remain in the system for at least 24 hours. Reseal the well and wait for a full day before proceeding.
After the 24 hours is up, you need to flush the system of chlorine to avoid overloading your septic tank. (Chlorine will kill bacteria that play an important part in breaking down waste in your septic tank.) To purge your water system of chlorine, open one outside tap that drains into a field, ditch or other low lying area (don't run chlorinated water into a lake, stream or anything that drains into your septic tank). You'll probably want to use a hose; chlorine can kill grass and shrubs.
Leave the tap running until you can't smell the chlorine anymore. Wait about an hour and then run the water again to make sure no chlorine odor remains. Your water supply has to be completely free of chlorine before it is retested, because chlorine residue will interfere with lab results.
Follow-up procedures
In serious cases of coliform contamination, more than one treatment may be necessary. You should always get your water retested after shock chlorination before using it for drinking or cooking purposes.Recurrent coliform contamination may indicate a problem with your well construction or location.
Iron Bacteria are more resistant to shock chlorination than other types of bacteria and you may have to repeat the procedure several times. These types of bacteria contamination initiation tend to recur, so periodic chlorination at lower concentration may be needed to control the problem.
Shock chlorination should also be performed whenever repairs or modifications are made to the well system.
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